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Peptide

Acetyl octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8)

Lengthened version of Argireline used in cosmetics against expression wrinkles. It has only been studied in people within multi-ingredient products, so it is impossible to know how much of the effect is its own.
Regulatory status
Cosmetic and topical
Family
Neurotransmitter peptide (SNAP-25 analog)
Scientific evidence
Low
Number of findings
2
Where it acts
Skin and aging
Also known as
SNAP-8, acetyl octapeptide-3, acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide-3, acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide-3

Regulatory status

FDA (US): Not approved as a drug (sold as a cosmetic ingredient)

EMA (EU): Not authorized as a drug (cosmetic ingredient in the EU)

Dose

There is no established dose in humans.

Safety

In topical cosmetics it is usually well tolerated; it may cause local irritation or redness. There are no long-term safety data or data in pregnancy. Do a patch test on a small area before using it.

Effect by goal · level of evidence

Eye-contour wrinkles (microneedle patch)

reduces Low clinical trial (A) in people
−25.8% fine lines

12-week trial with no placebo group using hyaluronic acid microneedle patches that combined acetyl octapeptide-3 with other peptides, adenosine, and algae: fine lines fell by 25.8% and hydration rose by 15.4%. Several authors work at companies in the industry.

View the study (clinical trial) →

Periocular wrinkles vs placebo

reduces Low clinical trial (A) in people
N = 24

24 people used a microneedle patch with acetyl octapeptide-3 (plus vitamin C and other actives) overnight on one eye and a hyaluronic acid placebo on the other for 28 days; wrinkles and elasticity improved more on the treated side, with no adverse effects. Study by the manufacturing company.

View the study (clinical trial) →

In depth

Where it acts

Skin and aging

How it works

Like Argireline, it mimics a fragment of SNAP-25 to interfere with acetylcholine release and, in theory, relax the muscle contraction that creates wrinkles. Its actual passage through the skin is not well demonstrated.

What the evidence says

In people

  • Eye-contour wrinkles (microneedle patch). 12-week trial without a placebo group using hyaluronic acid microneedle patches that combined acetyl octapeptide-3 with other peptides, adenosine, and algae: fine lines fell by 25.8% and hydration rose by 15.4%. Several authors work for companies in the industry. PubMed 31134751
  • Periocular wrinkles vs placebo. 24 people wore a microneedle patch with acetyl octapeptide-3 (plus vitamin C and other actives) overnight on one eye and a hyaluronic acid placebo on the other for 28 days; wrinkles and elasticity improved more on the treated side, with no adverse effects. Study by the manufacturing company. PubMed 39082657

References

  1. PubMed 31134751
  2. PubMed 39082657

Information, not medical advice. Evidence for cosmetic ingredients tends to be small and funded by manufacturers.

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