Peptide
Nonapeptide-1 (Melanostatine-5)
Synthetic peptide used in products to even out skin tone and lighten spots. There is only one small trial in melasma, with the peptide mixed with other depigmenting agents and no clear differences.
Regulatory status
Cosmetic and topical
Family
MC1R receptor antagonist peptide (depigmenting)
Where it acts
Skin and aging
Also known as
nonapeptide-1, Melanostatine-5, Melanostatine, nonapeptide-1
Regulatory status
FDA (US): Not approved as a drug (sold as a cosmetic ingredient)
EMA (EU): Not authorized as a drug (cosmetic ingredient in the EU)
Dose
There is no established dose in humans.
Safety
In topical cosmetics it is usually well tolerated; it may cause local irritation or redness. There are no long-term safety data or data in pregnancy. Do a patch test on a small area before using it.
Effect by goal · level of evidence
no clear effect Low RCT (AA) in people
N = 46
Double-blind pilot trial with 46 patients after hydroquinone treatment: a cream that combined nonapeptide-1, phenylethyl resorcinol, other actives, and sunscreen slightly improved melasma severity, but without a significant difference vs sunscreen alone over 8 months.
View the study (RCT) →In depth
Where it acts
Skin and aging
How it works
Competes with melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) for its MC1R receptor on melanocytes. By blocking that signal, it theoretically decreases melanin production. It should not be confused with 'melanostatin' (MIF-1) of the brain, which is a different molecule.
What the evidence says
In people
- Melasma maintenance. Double-blind pilot trial with 46 patients after hydroquinone treatment: a cream combining nonapeptide-1, phenylethyl resorcinol, other actives, and sunscreen slightly improved melasma severity, but with no significant difference compared with sunscreen alone over 8 months. PubMed 34379946
References
- PubMed 34379946
Information, not medical advice. Evidence for cosmetic ingredients tends to be small and funded by manufacturers.