Lipid peptide derived from a procollagen fragment, used in anti-wrinkle creams. It is among the cosmetic peptides with the best human trial, although the evidence remains limited.
FDA (US): Not approved as a drug (sold as a cosmetic ingredient)
EMA (EU): Not authorized as a drug (cosmetic ingredient in the EU)
Dose
There is no established dose in humans. In the main trial, a moisturizing cream with 3 ppm of pal-KTTKS was used on the face for 12 weeks (Robinson 2005).
Safety
In topical cosmetics it is usually well tolerated; it may cause local irritation or redness. There are no long-term safety data or data in pregnancy. Do a patch test on a small area before using it.
Differences between women and men
The available trials were done only in women (93 Caucasian women aged 35–55; 21 Indonesian women); there are no data in men. View the study →
Effect by goal · level of evidence
Wrinkles and fine lines from photoaging
reducesLow-moderateRCT (AA)in people
N = 93, 12 wk
Double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face trial in 93 women aged 35–55 over 12 weeks: the 3 ppm cream reduced wrinkles and fine lines vs placebo according to image analysis and expert evaluators, and was well tolerated.
Double-blind trial with 21 women over 8 weeks, twice a day: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 improved more than acetyl hexapeptide-3 and than placebo. Very small sample.
The KTTKS sequence comes from type I procollagen and, in cell cultures, acts as a signal for fibroblasts to make more collagen and matrix. The palmitic acid chain makes it more fat-soluble and helps it pass through the outer layer of the skin.
What the evidence says
In people
Wrinkles and fine lines from photoaging. Double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face trial in 93 women aged 35–55 for 12 weeks: the cream with 3 ppm reduced wrinkles and fine lines compared with placebo according to image analysis and expert graders, and was well tolerated. PubMed 18492182
Crow's feet in Asian skin. Double-blind trial with 21 women over 8 weeks, twice a day: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 improved more than acetyl hexapeptide-3 and placebo. Very small sample. PubMed 36909866